Forever amber

Apart from its reputation as the centre of the Solidarity Movement in Poland, Gdansk on the Baltic Sea has many more facets to explore, from rich ambers to brick churches, Ranjita Biswas discovers

Gdansk: That's Nobel Peace Prize winner Lech Walesa's city. In the late 80s when Perestroika was happening in Soviet Russia, and countries in its Eastern Bloc were stirring with protests against the Iron Curtain, this was a name we became familiar with through regular media coverage. For, on the shipyards of this port city on the Baltic Sea in northern Poland is where Walesa started his Solidarity Movement which later bloomed into a huge protest rally across the country. While Poland shook off the shackles of long time domination of soviet Russia post- Second World War, it also gave impetus to other neighbouring countries in the Eastern Bloc to follow the route.
All this was pretty well-known but as a city, won't it be a dull place to visit with nothing but a shipyard and some industrial factories around, perhaps? So it was not with much enthusiasm that I set for Gdansk from the Polish capital Warsaw by road with a group of friends. Well, ignorance is bliss sometimes because I was pleasantly surprised to discover a city steeped in history and beautiful to boot. The other thing I found was that Gdansk was earlier the German-dominated Danzig. As soon as it got mentioned, the name clicked. Wasn't this place where the Second World War literally started with the invasion of Poland by Germany at Westerplatte peninsula near the city? Gdansk, it seemed, needed some serious exploration.

The first thing we did, almost as a ritual, was to visit the shipyard. The Monument to the Fallen Shipyards Workers stands at the site to commemorate the victims of bloody worker strike in 1970 and later was the rallying point of the Solidarity Movement. That day, there were bouquets of flowers placed at the foot of the monument and I suddenly remembered that the previous day was 31 August, observed as the Solidarity Day in Poland.

The site of the old river-port of Gdansk on river Motlawa is very attractive and historically significant. Being the only port of Poland in old days it provided an outlet for goods produced in east Europe- even Asia. Hence the city was rich and strategic. The symbol of its medieval splendour can be surmised from the huge 'Crane' with an immense wooden wheel that dominates the riverside. It was used for cargo and putting up ship masts and served as an unusual city gate. Today, the picturesque site also hosts National Maritime Museum and Lech Walesa's office. Boat cruises on the river are very popular.

Gdansk is actually a thousand year old city. Its Long Street at the centre of the old town is regarded as one of the most beautiful in Europe. But the Gateway to it is also a reminder of tougher times with its Torture Tower where executions were held in public, and the Prison Tower. However, while walking along the Long Street, flanked by colourful, medieval buildings and rich merchants' houses, with the statue of Neptune in the middle of it these grim symbols fly away from the mind and it felt as if we travelled back to medieval times.

This part of Poland does not have stones for buildings, but bricks make up for it. The St. Mary's Church, entirely made of brick, took 150 years to build and can accommodate 25,000 people ! It is believed to be the largest brick church in the world. During the Solidarity Movement when there was a crackdown by the authorities, workers had taken refuse here. There is an enormous astronomical clock inside dating back to 1464. Legend says that the clock's maker had his eyes gauged out so that he could not replicate it elsewhere.

Another church worth visiting is the Oliwa Cathedral at the outer suburb famous for the gigantic organ built in mid 18th century. It has 7896 pipes and 110 registers. People go there to listen when the organ is played at certain hours. Admission is free. Sitting on the floor as there was no seat available, as I listened to the waves of musical notes the magnificence of the church engulfed me. Every summer (July-August),the International Festival of Organ Music is held here.

Gdansk is also a centre for culture aficionados as the Shakespearean Festival, International Festival of Open Air and Street Theatre, 'Solidarity of Arts' Festival focusing on universal message of art beyond borders, are permanent annual fixtures. By the way, it is also the birth place of Nobel Laureate Gunter Grass. The statue of Oskar, the hero of his famous book The Tin Drum on his 'bench' can be seen in the park near the writer's original house.

Though music can be the food of love, food -the way we understand is, is no less an attraction of a new place. Being by the sea, the area is known for its excellent sea food. You can taste different varieties of fish cooked the local way (try "Gdanska" restaurant) or as an international cuisine. Gdansk is also famous for its Goldwasser, the golden liquor of Gdansk, with flakes of gold which has established its reputation since 1598.

But it is not gold but a gem that makes Gdansk the World Capital of Amber. Normally, we think of amber in colours like brown, yellow etc. It was a revelation to know that amber can be in as many as 240 shades ranging from white to almost black. Amber is formed by sticky resin trees lying under the ground for millions of years. The largest deposits of Baltic amber in layers of the so-called "blue earth" are along the beaches of Gdansk. The city holds the Amberif, the biggest amber trade fair in the world. The Amber Museum is the right place to get an idea of the gem's origin and inspect astounding pieces of jewellery made from amber.

So apart from the famous shipyard, Gdansk has many things to offer indeed. Nice to be surprised!

(PIX by author)