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Two cities and an election
It isn’t easy to find the soul of Banaras: but you can catch a glimpse of it along the ghats very early in the morning in the songs of the mallahs. Mallahs are the boatmen who own the Ganga. If you’re a true Banarasi you will never, ever call a boat a nao. It is always bajra. Not only do the mallahs ply the bajra, they also control all trade on the ghat: the sale of sand on the banks and
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